Day 53
July 5, 2018
New Carlisle to Carleton sur mer
Bonaventure looks like a good first stop today. We head in to the outdoors store to replace my “buff” which somehow got lost along the way. For those of you who are not in the know about this accessory, it is just a very versatile tube of fabric which can be worn as a hat or a scarf and keeps you warm in the wind or cool if you wear it when wet.
The shop is just opening and we strike up a conversation with a gentleman who is waiting outside. It turns out he owned the shop for many years and operated a bike shop in the basement. He tells us he sold it six years ago. He is an avid cyclist in his early 70’s and I think he probably comes here often just to make sure the new owners are doing a good job. He tells me he has ridden the entire Gaspé peninsula “loop” every year. He does it with a group of friends to raise money for cancer patients and they ride a 100 mile day over the mountains followed by a 200 mile day back to the shop in Bonaventure. He couldn’t do it this year because he blew out his achilles playing beach volleyball and is still recovering. Wow!
Some folks we met in Percé recommended a stop to look at the old St. Bonaventure Church, but I try all the doors and it is locked. The building really anchors the town and is impressively built.
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| Bonaventure has many nice public art pieces. |
Our ride goes smoothly today and 50 miles later we are in Carleton sur mer. Tom had contacted a warm showers host for our stay tonight, but he is going to be out of town so he gives us the coordinates for his favorite beach camping site. We spend some time there in the afternoon, then head over to Le Naufrageur to taste their beers. Five star. And, the nachos crevettes are good too.
The forecast is for lots of rain overnight and into the morning with 30 mph winds, so we get a site at the municipal campground. The beach site offers no protection from wind and rain.
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| This is the stealth camping site on the beach. We decide against staying here and opt for a more protected site in the municipal campground nearby. |
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| This is the last stop on our Gaspe tour des biers. It is only about 2.5 miles from our campsite. |
Day 54
July 6, 2018
The weather predicted arrives and its time for a cheap airbnb which I manage to book. It is technically just a room in a shared house, but we are the only ones in the three bedroom house. Perfect. I honestly don’t think we could have made any forward progress in wind this powerful.
Before leaving this vacation town, we visited the lighthouse at the end of the campground and the penninsula and watched the kite surfers. Watch the video below to get a sense of the views.
Before leaving this vacation town, we visited the lighthouse at the end of the campground and the penninsula and watched the kite surfers. Watch the video below to get a sense of the views.
Day 55
July 7, 2018
Eventually we need to ride away from town and make it to the next province despite the wind. The first half of the day is slow. Once we start traveling east with the wind, things are looking up and our speed significantly increases.
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| Our day's ride map clearly shows our 180 degree travel direction change |
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| The Appalacians rise up in the hazy sunshine |
We cross the Restigouche River and are in New Brunswick. The first thing I notice is the lack of rest areas and the very narrow road edge for bicycles. We stop for a picnic lunch in Campbellton, a town founded greatly influenced by the salmon fishery.
The targeted municipal campground is worse than a WalMart parking lot with big RV’s packed in like sardines. We add one more big hill and about 4 km to the day and get to a much quieter and greener campground just outside the Eel River first nation area.
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| Restigouche Sam |
The targeted municipal campground is worse than a WalMart parking lot with big RV’s packed in like sardines. We add one more big hill and about 4 km to the day and get to a much quieter and greener campground just outside the Eel River first nation area.
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