Day 34
June 16
Riviere du Loup to Tadoussac
Ours are the only bikes on the ferry from Rivière du loup this morning. We are the first ones on the ferry and the bikes go right up in front. Soon after, a gang of motorcyclists roll on and our bikes are surrounded. Then, a huge tour bus pulls in. It takes a little over an hour to cross the river and the day is blue and clear. We see some stark white shapes in the water and it dawns on us that we are seeing a small pod of beluga whales from a distance. There are also a few seals and lots of seagulls.
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| We were the only bikes on board this time and tucked in at the front near a bus (white roof on the right) and in front of cars and motorcycles |
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| It was a beautiful day to cross the river with views of the mountains and of beluga whales (not shown). |
The road we need to take from the ferry landing at Saint-Simeon to Tadoussac has a number of steep climbs. It is only about 26 miles, but it takes awhile. When we have to rest, the black flies find us, so we just keep moving.
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| One of several note-worthy signs marking our descents and, unfortunately, climbs. |
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| Walking our bikes is inevitable as the hills bcome too steep to ride. |
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| The tide is low, exposing the rocks for a what seems like a mile from the shore. We reached our highest speeds coasting down the mountain roads through the mountains in this photo (35+mph) |
We descend to the Bay of St. Catherine and stop at the national park visitor center to see if we can get tickets for a river and fjord cruise. There is a zodiac wildlife boat tour leaving soon, so we quickly suit up and get on board. This boat flies through the water and it is very cold in the wind.
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| Julia is geared up for the whale watch |
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| Cruising the fjord looking for whales and seals |
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| The old man in the sea |
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| Julia had to bundle up tight as we hit cruising speed in the zodiac. With the water temperatures in the 40's, the warm air temperatures (in the70's on shore) quickly disappeared. |
A hand knit hat is essential here
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| The fjord was impressive with cliffs and waterfalls twice the height of Niagara Falls |
We spot a finned whale and a few minkes and the belugas. The boat enters the fjord du Saguenay and it’s a typical fjord with steep sides and high waterfalls.
After the cruise we cycle to a little national park at Pointe-Noire where there is a trail to an observation deck that is a perfect place to cook our dinner. We watch the belugas swimming around and even see a mom and calf.
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| Dinner and tea on the deck overlooking the fjord |
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| Belugas were feeding below our dinner platform. That's the white mark in the photo above. They were quite close to shore. |
Day 35
June 17
Tadoussac to Trois Pistoles
We head back to ths south side of the Saint Lawrence and hopefully leave some of the steep mountain grades behind.
This morning it is raining and very cold and we just slog through it to get to our destination. By the time we are within five miles of the ferry it is raining very hard and is less than 50 degrees. Julia thinks she is getting a little bit hypothermic and is looking for somewhere to change into dry clothes and get warm. Luckily, there is a first nations bowling alley (yes, really!) complete with a bar and a very nice woman who lets her use change in the restroom there. We drink some hot coffee and hang out for about an hour in the warm bar while we wait to go down the very steep hill to the ferry.
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| Belugas were swimming and feeding just in front of the ferry as we prepared to leave the dock |
The cold rain continues off and on all day and by the time we get to Trois Pistoles, we have decided to try to find an Airbnb or anywhere to stay indoors. I think we get the only available room in town. One hotel is out of business and the one bed and breakfast is closed for the night because the owner has been painting all day and she doesn't want any guests. It's a relief to be warm and dry and we head across the street to the fine restaurant which is run by the son of the woman who owns the bed and breakfast where we are staying.
Delicious dinner after a cold day of riding in the rain
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