Buffalo is a way cool place

DAY 5 Dunkirk, NY to Buffalo, NY
Friday, May 18, 2018

Small craft advisory.  10 -15 mph winds with gusts to 20.  The wind is from the northeast and we are heading right into it.  It is a tough ride.  I noticed a sign outside the elementary school which said, “character trait for May:  Perseverance.”   yep.

another inspiring message

We arrive at our lunch stop, Evangola State Park.  The park is full of second graders learning about Lake Erie flora and fauna.   Some of the children were so little, I thought they might blow away.
We rested a bit and then headed back out on a quiet road which paralleled route 5.  Once we got back on route 5 we were hit with the full strength of the wind and were only able to pedal about 6mph.

We were getting exhausted by the four lanes of traffic, so many trucks, and strong headwind and decided to stop and review our options.  After a latte at Tim Horton’s we decided to push on toward Buffalo so we could stay with our warm showers hosts, Cliff and Carol.  I am so glad we did.  Once we left the highway and started winding our way into the city, conditions improved.

We went past deserted steel mills including the huge Lackawanna Steel Company. The sprawling plant began steel production in 1903 and soon became the largest steel production facility in the world.  In 1922, Lackawanna Steel agreed to be purchased by Bethlehem Steel for a price of $60million.  By 1943 the plant employed over 20,000 workers for 3 shifts.  The plant continued its huge output into the 1970’s but went the way of all steel mills with the influx of cheap foreign steel.  By 1977, the workforce had declined to about 8500.  In 1983, the last steel was produced and the remaining 3900 workers lost their livelihoods.  The plant closed and now stands as a ghostly shell of its former powerful presence in the city.

cruising through the restored waterfront area

Our stay with Cliff and Carol made the long hard day of riding fade into memory.  Cliff welcomed us with a beer and a nice flat place in his back yard for our tent.  Carol’s gardens were filled with herbs and flowers wandering together in glorious spring color.  We were soon set up and off for another beer and the best fish and chips dinner in the old first ward at an Irish bar.  We shared a table with some other cyclists so you know where the conversation went.  Cliff kindly took us on a driving tour of Buffalo and we saw the Darwin D. Martin house which was a beautiful example of Frank Lloyd Wright’s design.  It is the epitome of Wright’s prairie period design.  We finished our evening with some buffalo wings at a local bar enjoying the jazz music.  All the musicians seemed to know and love Cliff who must be a regular attendee of their gigs.  It was great to relax with a couple who truly love their city.  I definitely want to return to Buffalo in the future.

Cliff and Carol, our hosts.  

Some cool jazz after a long day

excellent camping spot